Model Land Rally Project - How to make buildings

I generally start each building by searching many photographs of buildings in various shapes and styles. In this case I found an interesting photography book at home that helped me a lot and provided me with some ideas. Then, I chose this particular old building that once was the city gate, one of the original Cinque Ports named The Barbican with its peculiar architecture (It is said to be a Flemish style construction...built in 1539 by Henry VIII in Sandwich, Kent, Southeast England). It was really difficult to make a plan from this building with one single picture. Then I searched for more photos in different angles over the internet.

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Here you can see the first sketches from my plan for the Barbican (right below)(the plan is in 1:1). Of course it is not possible to draw a perfect plan based on photographs only, so what I suggest when you start planning your own building is that you must be ready for new ideas (In my case I wanted to reproduce the building as much real as possible, which took me many hours of calculations and measurements). But If you´re a practical person (differently from me :) use your imagination and create whatever you want.

Then, I´ve cut a plywood sheet (MDF can also be used) into two parts and separated them because the track will be layed between them (see photos). Notice I have united the two parts with a thin cardboard fixed under the plywood sheets.After that, I´ve copied down the plan on the plywood, marking all lines and measurements. During this process, I´ve managed to find some mistakes from the original plan.

After checking up on the plan and remaking some measurements on the plywood, I could at last get started with the construction. I began it by fixing the first supports for the roof: the ridge ends and the pinnacles (centres) of the two conical towers. I used super glue and hot melt glue to fix the "timbers" on the plywood. This is a very good way to get started because you are able to have an overview of your model right at the begining. So it´s easy to find any eventual disproportions and correct them immediately.

Then, I´ve added the main columns of the gateway (on every corners). I´ve used balsa wood timbers here because they´re very easy to cut and to glue. They´re also much more rigid than those sticks. Then, I started to build the structure which will grant more resistance making the entire structure more solid.

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But there´s no big problem on that as you can always make modifications in your search for perfection. In fact the beginning I´d say is a proper time for making mistakes. But as your model-building begin to take shape further mistakes must be foreseen and fixed before its too late!

Here, I have put all my efforts on the left tower of the building. I reinforced the structure by pasting lolly sticks in all columns. Remember to leave space for the windows and try not to place any structural timbers where the windows would be constructed. This is why the vertical sticks are not equally spaced. (see next step). It´s also very important that you build the structure 5mm behind the lines! Do not forget the walls are 4 or 6mm thick. (see photo right)

After the structure is built, it´s time to get started with the wall of the tower. First, I´ve cut a sheet of paper of the same height of the structure and embraced it around the structure as shown in the photo. From the model (original photograph), I took proportions (approximately), then I marked the positions of the window, the door and the gap (right below the window). This is just a scrap paper, no problem if you make too many scribbles...

Now I´ve just copied the sketch onto a cardboard of 0.7mm thick (1.0mm thick at the most), then with a craft knife I could cut the holes for the window the gaps and the door. You will just repeat this process for the rest of the model. (photos right)

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Here is the original building that I´ve transformed into a model.

2.Starting from a photograph

The Barbican

1.Picking up an Idea

3.Building the structure

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This is the next step. I want to put lights in the second floor only. I don´t want to have lights coming through the little gaps of the tower. So I have made a mask of cardboard to separate the two floors. This mask also helps the building to become more solid and firm. Repeat it in the rest of the model.
It´s worth looking more carefuly to this image. Notice that I have reinforced the main column of the tower with two more sticks. A strong column is very important because you´ll need to build a resistant roof. Make sure the column is exactly at the centre.

Before I fix the cardboard walls, I had to make a support for them. This way the walls won´t swing and will be able to resist a car crash. You must repeat this process on the entire model but pay attention where you´ll build the windows. Leave a space for them.

Do not paste the cardboards yet. Just cut them into the correct size and wait for the next steps. *Write a code or simply draw arrows to indicate where´s bottom and where is left or right, then store them.

*(Sometimes one side can be 1mm or 2 larger than the other as it´s quite difficult to build a completelly simetrical structure, that´s why it´s worth specifying the sides)

4.Adding details (With Balsa Wood)

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All right. Now lets continue with the job! Doors seem to be a difficult thing to do. It is, but you can do it for sure. All you´ll need is good material to work. Now it is worth using balsa wood in greater quantities. This fine wood is just perfect to sand and cut. In models like this with round walls balsa wood is the only flexible modelling wood which can be curved without cracking. Besides, doors, windows and roof can be modelled with superb detailing by using balsa wood.

To make the doors, cut a rectangle from a balsa wood sheet (2mm or 3mm thick) and add details on it. The picture left shows how you can get tiny pieces of balsa from a sheet of a thin balsa wood and they fit well for windows, door knobs, panels, joints or whatever. Always use sand paper to do the last finishings to the wood. The door will be painted with betumen varnish later. All you´ll need is a little patience and dedication now.

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Windows can be time consuming, but you can get fantastic results. To make them, first use balsa wood to model the window sill (2mm or 3mm thick) then make the frames (frames can be 2mmx2mm. Length varies). For the glass panels you must slice very thin pieces of wood and glue them one by one on the plastic rectangle. (You can make the glass using plastic boxes, or CD cases cut into rectangles)

For the wood covering (up right), use balsa wood sheet of 1mm thick cut in planks of 1/2cm wide. Length varies ad libitum. To create more realism, fix a curtain behind the windows using a soft cloth.

This photo right shows how you can assemble the windows. Note the wiring for the illumination that will be installed latter. I´ve used Christmas lamps here as they´re very cheap.

The photo to the left shows a close up from the main door. The panels were made with balsa wood squares pasted on the rectangle. The knob was made also with balsa and modelled into shape.

This photo (left) shows the details of the right tower window. Everything was inspired from the original building and adapted. This texture used on this wall is just a sheet of cork. It should be covered with a thin layer of plaster and then painted later. To make textures you can also use sand paper sheets, recycled boxes, cork sheets...and so on. Be creative! =)

This photo (right) shows the right tower´s windows already done. Note that I´ve started the house to the right. I´ve just assembled the basic structure.

(left) Left tower innards. Note the maskings I´ve made to create an ambience that can be seen through windows. These rooms were painted with bitumen varnish (dark varnish). If you do not wish to hang any curtains behind the windows your indoor room must have more detailing...you can even build furniture and so on.

(Right) The wood covering embracing the left tower and the 'tunnel'.

5. Making brick walls

For brick walls modelling I highly recommend DAS modelling clay. It comes in two colours, terracota and white. This fine clay doesn´t shrink nor crack after drying and you can keep it wet while working by dropping some water on prolonging the time that you can work with it. So before you start working with clay, you should first have a bowl of water at hand.

First you should get a nice handful of clay then add some water and mix it thoroughly. Then stretch it on the table using a roll so it gets equally planed. It should not get thicker than 3mm. I recommend that you stretch it on a sheet of card paper. This way you should be able to transport it easily outdoors for drying.

After the clay is stretched and cut in the right size, use a craft blade or anything thin enough to make the horizontal lines. (this photo is just a representation). Be sure to make them parallel. Then, stab the clay with vertical lines finishing the brick wall pattern (You should make your own tools for this). You´ll need patience in this step. And stay alert (!) While modelling the walls (which can take long) the edges begin to dry out. Keep them wet!

After it hardens, paste it with white glue on the desired place.

Aging effect:

After DAS modelling clay hardens it reveals a very "artificial" orange colour (right). Then, an aging effect is needed to improve authenticity.

I recommend you sand the surface fairly before using paints. Now paint the walls with a thin coat of a soft varnish. Then prepare a mix in a bowl with approx. 30% of mineral spirits and 70% of dark varnish (judea bitumen paint). Paint randomly while the varnish is wet so that some areas get darker than others. It should become like this photo left.

You can also glue some lichens and ivy in the corners!

This is what you can do following these methods. With varnish and mineral spirits you can make very fine aging effects. You get excellent results at very low costs.

Notice that I´ve painted dark these windows. In the real Barbican today they´re white. But I found old photographs from the 70´s and earlier, and the windows were painted dark. So I decided to paint dark as it was originally.

6. Roof assembly

After all first and second floor´s structural timbers are placed and the walls are completely or partially finished you can get to the roof. Roof making is one of the easiest stages of the construction. First you have to make the ridges by placing a stick. Then you should make reinforcements to the structure as showed. (right above the arch)

Then, a reinforcement is needed before you make the covers as showed in this picture. While the glue sets you should cut and place the rafters, at least only the rafters that are visible. You don´t actualy need to make them for real. The rafters are little wood sticks placed on the borders and spaced equally. As showed...after they were placed I´ve painted with dark varnish.

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Select chapter:

1.Picking up an idea

2.Starting from a photograph

3.Building the structure

4.Adding detailing (balsa wood)

5.Making brick walls

6.Roof assembly

Questions? Please write me!

7. Roof covering and chimneys

Once every structural timber work is done (as showed left) you can now cover the roof with dark paper. This paper will help masking the lights inside the house and will also serve as a support for the roof tiles and chimneys. I recommend you use a thick paper. The use of paper rather than hard cardboard sheets is important because it adapts itself to the imperfections of the roof structure and it also can be curved without resistance making the job much easier (note the conical roofs)

Chimneys can be assembled with thick cardboard pieces. This one to the left is 2.0x2.0cm. It should be well fixed on the roof and must be straight aligned. You can model chimneys of many different designs but make sure you choose one that fits the architectural style of your building.

Notice that I have made a little hole on the top of this long one. In the near future I´ll find a way to make smoke come out of it! So I have made the top detachable.

Now use modelling clay to make the bricks and the chimneys tops!

Making Roof Tiles:

I´ve found a way of making cheap and realistic roof tiles. Basicly it is made of sandpaper sheets cut in rectangles. But first you should (if necessary) paint it brown using basic acrylic art paints so the colour fits the real building. After that a thin coat of transpearent varnish and dark varnish should be applied so it gets aged. Then I´ve attached with glue the sandpaper on a thick dark paper so it gets harder, then I cut the tiles into rectangles of approx. 6.0x10.0mm.

7.Roof covering and chimneys

Ok. I know it might sound crazy, but after that I´ve glued the tiles one by one with pincers covering the dark paper. These lines on the conical towers serve as a guide. It is a real trial of patience. I suggest doing a little everynight before going to bed. It is a nice relaxing activity.

It is really hard work, but it´s the only way I could satisfy my eyes. So this hard work has paid off! Of course you can substitute this technique using corrugated roof sheets you can find in your local hobby shop or stationers. You may skip this stage if you wish.

On the photos (right and below) you can see how I´ve made the ridge. After the entire roof is completed I´ve modelled the ridge with DAS modelling clay. I´ve used a craft blade to make the top tiles and the last detailing. You can also see here the double chimney is almost finished just remaining the top.

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